Argentina: a Country of Extreme Contrasts 🇦🇷
At the end of February 2020, I travelled to Argentina on a humanitarian mission to assess the needs of drought-affected indigenous communities in Salta. The goal was to design a response that would help these communities cope with recurring climate shocks, particularly droughts, floods, and wildfires, which pose an increasing threat in northern Argentina and the Gran Chaco region.
Before heading to Salta, I spent several days in Buenos Aires, where I met with the EU Delegation, authorities, and local humanitarian partners to understand the broader context of the crisis. These discussions were insightful and essential, shaping how we would approach our work in Salta.
Buenos Aires – A City That Stole My Heart
While my time in Buenos Aires was mainly focused on work, I made sure to explore the city in my free moments—and it didn’t take long for me to fall in love with it. The architecture, the energy, the people—it was all captivating. The mix of European-style boulevards, lively cafés, and passionate tango performances made Buenos Aires feel both grand and intimate at the same time.
One of the most unexpected highlights was meeting Sebastian, a taxi driver of Polish heritage, with whom I quickly became friends. We stayed in touch even after I left Argentina, and I even got to know his wonderful mother, making this trip even more special on a personal level.
Salta – The Gateway to the North
Leaving Buenos Aires behind, I took a flight north to Salta, often called “La Linda” (The Beautiful)—and for good reason. Salta is surrounded by breathtaking mountain landscapes, colonial-era buildings, and vibrant markets where Andean culture thrives. The city’s mix of Spanish, Indigenous, and Criollo influences makes it one of the most culturally rich regions of Argentina.
After a few more meetings in Salta, I set off on a road trip with local organisations and the Argentinian Red Cross, travelling deeper into the Gran Chaco region, where communities were struggling with the impacts of drought and climate change.
The Vulnerabilities of Indigenous Communities in Gran Chaco
The Gran Chaco region, which spans Argentina, Paraguay, Bolivia, and Brazil, is one of the most fragile ecosystems in South America. It is home to many indigenous communities, including the Wichí, Qom, and Pilagá peoples, who have lived here for centuries. However, in recent years, their way of life has been increasingly threatened by:
• Droughts – Water scarcity is one of the most pressing issues. Many communities rely on seasonal rivers and rainwater collection, but long dry periods leave them without access to clean water.
• Floods – When rains do come, they often arrive in the form of intense storms, leading to flash floods that destroy homes, crops, and infrastructure.
• Wildfires – Rising temperatures and land clearance for agriculture and cattle ranching have made the region more prone to destructive fires, endangering both people and biodiversity.
• Xenophobia and Discrimination – Indigenous communities face systemic marginalisation, with limited access to healthcare, education, and job opportunities. They are often viewed as outsiders in their own country, leading to social exclusion and economic hardship.
• Unfair Practices by Big Companies – Large agribusinesses and logging companies have been rapidly expanding in northern Argentina, often exploiting the land without considering the rights of indigenous communities. This has led to deforestation, pollution, and the displacement of local populations.
• Land Grabbing – One of the biggest threats to indigenous land rights is illegal land appropriation. Powerful landowners and corporations frequently encroach upon ancestral lands, forcing communities into legal battles they cannot afford or directly pushing them out through intimidation.
Visiting the Affected Communities
With our humanitarian partners, we travelled to:
• General Ballivián – A small town deeply affected by water shortages, where local leaders explained how livelihoods were disappearing as agriculture became impossible.
• Tartagal – A key regional hub, where indigenous groups have been advocating for better access to water, healthcare, and legal recognition of their ancestral lands.
• Rivadavia Department – One of the most drought-affected areas, where the Wichí people struggle with malnutrition and lack of clean drinking water.
• Morillo – A remote village where we discussed disaster preparedness efforts, particularly ways to improve local water collection systems to withstand future droughts.
• San Pedro (Jujuy) – The final stop, where we learned about reforestation efforts and sustainable farming practices aimed at restoring some of the lost natural balance.
Humanitarian Response and Preparedness
Addressing these challenges requires both emergency relief and long-term solutions. Our work focused on:
• Water Access – Supporting the construction of rainwater harvesting systems and water purification technologies to reduce reliance on unpredictable natural sources.
• Food Security – Helping communities regain food sovereignty through sustainable agriculture, reforestation, and nutritional support for vulnerable groups.
• Disaster Preparedness – Strengthening early warning systems, fire prevention training, and emergency response networks to mitigate the impacts of future droughts, floods, and wildfires.
• Land Rights Advocacy – Supporting efforts to document and protect indigenous land ownership, ensuring that communities have legal defences against land grabbing.
• Social Integration and Legal Support – Collaborating with local and international organisations to reduce xenophobia, improve access to legal representation, and promote policies that protect indigenous rights.
A Mission That Left a Deep Impression
This trip to northern Argentina was one of the most impactful missions I had been on. Seeing the resilience of indigenous communities, despite the many challenges they face, was both heartbreaking and inspiring. The need for climate adaptation strategies, stronger legal protections, and inclusive policies is urgent, but so too is the determination of the people fighting for their future.
Leaving Salta, I felt a deep sense of purpose—knowing that, through humanitarian work, we could contribute to solutions that truly matter. It was a reminder that beyond statistics and reports, humanitarian efforts are about people—their lives, their struggles, and their hopes for a better future.
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Venezuela Refugees' Response in Brazil 🇧🇷
Curitiba, Brazil; February 2020
In February 2020, I travelled to Brazil to visit colleagues from UNHCR and Caritas, exploring their projects that support Venezuelan migrants in the country. The trip was an opportunity to see firsthand how Brazil was addressing protection, shelter, social integration, and long-term solutions for those seeking refuge.
I left deeply impressed—not only by the dedication of humanitarian workers but by Brazil itself. Despite facing significant internal social and economic challenges, the country remains open and welcoming to foreigners. More than that, Brazil does it comprehensively—involving civil society, NGOs, and local governments, and having one of the most advanced pro-refugee legal frameworks in the world.
Beyond work, this trip also allowed me to experience the unique character of three different cities—São Paulo, Curitiba, and Brasília—each with its own identity, energy, and history. Thanks to my colleagues who hosted me and guided me, I was able to truly immerse myself in these places.
São Paulo – The Heart of Brazil’s Diversity
I began my journey in São Paulo, a city that never stops moving. It is Brazil’s economic powerhouse, but beyond the towering skyscrapers and constant flow of traffic, I discovered a city of rich cultural diversity. São Paulo is home to immigrant communities from all over the world, including the largest Japanese community outside Japan.
Walking through the streets, I felt the multicultural energy—from Italian cantinas in Bixiga to Korean barbecue spots in Bom Retiro. The city’s art scene also left a strong impression, especially the famous Avenida Paulista and the São Paulo Museum of Art (MASP), whose modern architecture stands in striking contrast to the city’s historical landmarks.
Curitiba – A Surprising Connection to Poland
Curitiba was one of the most touching parts of the trip. While I had long heard about its innovative urban planning and green spaces, I was particularly moved by learning about its Polish community.
Polish immigrants arrived in Curitiba in large numbers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, leaving a lasting mark on the city’s culture. I visited Bosque do Papa (Pope’s Woods and Polish Memorial), a peaceful forested park dedicated to Pope John Paul II, honouring the Polish heritage of the region. Seeing wooden houses, traditional folk art, and Polish-language signs in the heart of Brazil was unexpected yet deeply familiar—it felt like a small piece of Poland had been transplanted across the world.
Brasília – A Vision of the Future
The last stop on my trip was Brasília, Brazil’s unique, futuristic capital. Unlike São Paulo and Curitiba, Brasília is a planned city, designed in the 1950s to be a symbol of modernity and progress. Its layout, shaped like an airplane from above, and its monumental architecture were unlike anything I had seen before.
Exploring the Esplanada dos Ministérios, I admired the modernist designs of Oscar Niemeyer, especially the Cathedral of Brasília, with its stunning curved structure and stained-glass interior. The city’s atmosphere was different—calmer, more institutional, yet undeniably grand.
Reflections on an Eye-Opening Visit
This trip was more than just a mission—it was a chance to see Brazil’s commitment to humanitarian efforts, despite its own internal struggles. The way the government, civil society, and NGOs worked together to support Venezuelan migrants was truly inspiring.
Beyond that, experiencing Brazil’s diverse cities, its cultural richness, and the unexpected Polish heritage in Curitiba made the journey even more special. This visit reinforced what I had always heard—Brazil is not just a country, but a world of its own, full of contrasts, warmth, and resilience.
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Panama in 2020 🇵🇦
Casa Catedral Club, Casco Viejo, Panama City; February 2020
While 2020 was a year of uncertainty and isolation, it also brought moments of friendship, resilience, and unexpected joy. Despite being stuck under extreme home containment measures in Panama due to the COVID-19 pandemic, I was fortunate in many ways. I survived a severe illness before vaccines became available, a frightening experience that made me deeply appreciate health, life, and the support of those around me.
At the same time, 2020 wasn’t just about isolation. It was also a year of reunions, bonding, and personal connections, filled with friendships that strengthened despite the distance and restrictions.
Friendships That Defined the Year
One of the most special moments of the year was the visit of Dominika, my Polish friend, whom I first met years ago in South Sudan and later reconnected with in Bangladesh. Seeing her again in Panama felt like life had come full circle—our friendship, formed in distant places, now had another chapter in a completely different part of the world.
I also grew closer to Julio and his family, as well as Stivens and other friends from Venezuela, Colombia, and Panama. The bonds we built during this time were a source of strength and joy, especially when the world felt uncertain. Of course, my work colleagues from ECHO also played a key role in making the year more bearable—we navigated the challenges of working under pandemic restrictions, adapting to new realities while continuing our mission.
Escaping to Nature – Exploring Panama
Despite the restrictions, I was lucky to travel around the country when possible, discovering new places in Panama that provided a welcome escape from the confinement of city life.
• Las Escobas del Venado – A remote and peaceful beach, where the sound of crashing waves and the vastness of the ocean provided a rare sense of freedom and tranquillity in an otherwise restricted year.
• Pedasí – A charming coastal town on the Azuero Peninsula, known for its laid-back atmosphere, colourful houses, and strong fishing traditions. Walking through its streets and enjoying fresh seafood by the water was a much-needed break from city life.
• Tonosí District – A beautiful, rural area of rolling hills, rivers, and unspoiled landscapes. It was refreshing to experience a different, quieter side of Panama, away from the usual tourist trails.
Reflections on an Unforgettable Year
While 2020 was a year of challenges, it was also a year of human connection, resilience, and appreciating the little things. Surviving COVID-19 before vaccines, enduring strict lockdowns, and adapting to an entirely new way of life was not easy. But at the same time, friendships deepened, moments of joy became more meaningful, and a new appreciation for both nature and companionship emerged.
Looking back, Panama in 2020 was not just about being stuck—it was about finding ways to stay connected, to keep moving forward, and to hold onto the things that truly matter.
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