Coimbra, Portugal, November 2019

After my time in Canada, I continued my holiday in Portugal, flying from Toronto to Lisbon in November 2019. Unlike previous trips, which often revolved around work or introducing friends and family to the country, this visit was about taking things slowly. Most of my time was spent in Óbidos, my home base, enjoying the familiar comforts of life there. But as always, I couldn’t resist the urge to explore, venturing to Ferrel, Ericeira, Cabo da Roca, Lisbon, Batalha, Marinha Grande, Caldas da Rainha, Coimbra, and São Martinho do Porto.

Óbidos – A Familiar Haven

Returning to Óbidos always feels like slipping into a well-loved book. The medieval walls, the winding cobbled streets, and the sight of the castle towering over the town never lose their charm. I enjoyed leisurely mornings in local cafés, sipping espresso while watching the quiet rhythm of daily life unfold. The town’s historic atmosphere was particularly enchanting in November’s crisp air, with fewer tourists and a sense of tranquillity settling over the streets.

Ferrel – A Coastal Escape

Just a short drive from Óbidos, Ferrel remains one of my favourite spots to unwind. This small, laid-back village is deeply connected to the ocean, with many of its locals involved in fishing or surfing. Walking along the coast, I felt the salty wind on my face, the waves crashing against the cliffs—a perfect contrast to the stillness of Óbidos.

Ericeira – The Rhythms of the Atlantic

Further south, Ericeira is known for its surf culture and stunning ocean views. Unlike the quiet corners of Ferrel, Ericeira pulses with energy. The whitewashed houses, splashed with blue trim, overlook the Atlantic, creating a postcard-perfect setting. I wandered through its narrow streets, stopping for fresh seafood at a small tasca, where the grilled sardines were as delicious as ever.

Cabo da Roca – Standing at the Edge of Europe

A trip to Cabo da Roca always leaves an impression. There is something humbling about standing at the westernmost point of continental Europe, watching the Atlantic stretch endlessly into the horizon. The wind was fierce that day, howling through the cliffs, as I stood there, reminded once again of the sheer power of nature.

Lisbon – Old Paths, New Perspectives

Lisbon always pulls me back. Having visited countless times before, I decided to see the city differently this time—without an agenda. Instead of racing from landmark to landmark, I wandered aimlessly, letting the city guide me. I ended up in Alfama, where I stumbled upon a hidden Fado performance in a tiny bar. The singer’s haunting voice, accompanied only by a guitarra portuguesa, filled the dimly lit space, evoking Lisbon’s melancholic soul.

Batalha – Echoes of Portugal’s Past

Batalha, home to the Monastery of Santa Maria da Vitória, is a place where Portugal’s history comes alive. Built to commemorate the country’s victory at the Battle of Aljubarrota in 1385, the monastery is a masterpiece of Gothic and Manueline architecture. Walking through its intricate cloisters, I marvelled at the craftsmanship, imagining the centuries of monks, kings, and scholars who had once passed through these halls.

Marinha Grande – A Town of Glass and Tradition

Marinha Grande is often overlooked, but its history as Portugal’s glassmaking capital makes it worth a visit. I stopped by one of its traditional glass workshops, where artisans still handcraft intricate pieces using techniques passed down through generations. Watching them at work, shaping molten glass with skill and precision, was a fascinating experience.

Caldas da Rainha – The Art and Soul of the Region

No trip to this part of Portugal is complete without a visit to Caldas da Rainha, a town known for its ceramic traditions. I made my usual stop at the Bordallo Pinheiro Ceramics Factory, admiring its whimsical nature-inspired designs. The town’s daily fruit market, one of the oldest in Portugal, was in full swing, bursting with the colours and scents of fresh produce, cheeses, and flowers.

Coimbra – A City of Knowledge

One of the highlights of this trip was getting to know Coimbra. Though I had passed through before, this was my first time properly exploring Portugal’s historic university city. The University of Coimbra, perched on a hill, dominates the skyline, and stepping into its Baroque Joanina Library felt like entering a different era. Rows of ancient books, gilded shelves, and intricate woodwork made it one of the most beautiful libraries I had ever seen.

Beyond the university, Coimbra has a vibrant yet old-world charm. I enjoyed wandering along the Mondego River, where locals strolled, students sat studying, and street musicians played soft fado melodies in the background. There was something special about the way past and present blended seamlessly in this city.

São Martinho do Porto – A Quiet Goodbye to the Ocean

As my time in Portugal came to an end, I spent a peaceful afternoon in São Martinho do Porto, a small coastal town known for its crescent-shaped bay and calm waters. Unlike the wild Atlantic beaches I had visited earlier, São Martinho’s bay was serene and sheltered, a perfect place to sit by the water and reflect on the journey.

Reflections on a Slower Kind of Travel

This trip to Portugal was different from the others. There were no big plans, no fixed itineraries—just the simple joy of being present, embracing each place at my own pace. Whether it was standing on the cliffs of Cabo da Roca, listening to Fado in a dimly lit bar in Lisbon, or getting lost in the intellectual aura of Coimbra, this visit reminded me that sometimes, the best way to experience a place is simply to let it unfold naturally.

Portugal, as always, felt like home. But this time, it also felt like a quiet, personal retreat—a space to slow down, appreciate the moment, and reconnect with both the country and myself.

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