The Enchanting Dhaka 🇧🇩

01/12/18 05:01

November 2017: Rediscovering Dhaka—A City Full of Life and Surprises

After my visit to Cox’s Bazar in November 2017, I spent some additional time in Dhaka, following up on administrative work related to our humanitarian operations. While my days were filled with meetings and reports, I made it a point to explore the city whenever I had free time. Dhaka, often dismissed by visitors for being too chaotic, polluted, and overwhelming, holds a special place in my heart. Despite its size and challenges, I find the city full of charm, energy, and life, making it one of my favourite cities in the world.

One of the areas that I particularly love is the river port district, situated near the historic Ahsan Manzil, also known as the Pink Palace. This part of the city, bustling with activity at all hours of the day, offers a fascinating glimpse into the beating heart of Dhaka’s commerce and daily life. The port area, located on the banks of the mighty Buriganga River, is one of the busiest and most vibrant places in the city. Here, a constant flow of boats and ferries transport people and goods across the waterways, connecting Dhaka with towns and villages across Bangladesh. The river is lined with traditional wooden boats, locally known as “nouka,” skillfully maneuvered by boatmen navigating the seemingly chaotic waters with ease.

The port area is an explosion of colours, sounds, and smells. The air is filled with the shouts of traders, the rhythmic clanking of metal from nearby workshops, and the aroma of street food being prepared on makeshift stoves. Street vendors sell everything from fresh produce and spices to household goods, clothing, and intricate handicrafts. There is a palpable energy here that is both exhilarating and overwhelming, yet it’s this very essence that draws me back to Dhaka time and again.

Adjacent to the bustling port area is the Ahsan Manzil, a stunning palace that stands as a testament to Dhaka’s rich history and heritage. Once the residence of the Nawab of Dhaka, this grand building with its signature pink facade and Indo-Saracenic architecture provides a stark contrast to the surrounding urban chaos. A visit to the palace offers an escape into the grandeur of the past, with beautifully preserved rooms, antique furniture, and exhibitions that narrate the stories of Dhaka’s aristocracy. Standing on the terrace of Ahsan Manzil, overlooking the river and the bustling activity below, provides a unique perspective on how Dhaka has evolved over the years—blending the old with the new.

Wandering through the narrow alleys of Old Dhaka near the port, I often stumble upon hidden treasures—ancient mosques, temples, and colonial-era buildings that whisper tales of a bygone era. The lively markets in this part of the city, such as the Chawk Bazar, are a paradise for anyone looking to experience the authentic flavours of Dhaka. Whether it’s indulging in a plate of biriyani, sampling street snacks like fuchka (pani puri) or watching craftsmen at work, the area offers a sensory overload that I thoroughly enjoy.

One of my favourite pastimes while in Dhaka is simply sitting by the river and observing life unfold around me. Whether it’s the bustling ferry terminals, the children playing on the riverbanks, or the constant movement of traders and commuters, the river serves as the lifeblood of the city—connecting people, cultures, and livelihoods. The contrast of modern high-rises in the distance and the timeless scenes of river life in the foreground reminds me of the city’s resilience and dynamism.

Despite the traffic jams, the noise, and the overwhelming crowds, I find Dhaka to be a city of surprises, warmth, and humanity. Its people are incredibly welcoming, always eager to share their stories and experiences. The entrepreneurial spirit of Dhakaites is inspiring—whether it’s the rickshaw drivers weaving through traffic with impressive skill, the small business owners navigating the economic challenges, or the young professionals carving out a future in the ever-expanding metropolis.

My stay in Dhaka during this trip reaffirmed my affection for the city. While it may not be the most conventionally beautiful place, its soul, vibrancy, and character make it truly one-of-a-kind. Dhaka is a city that teaches patience, resilience, and the beauty of finding order in chaos, and every visit leaves me with new experiences and memories to cherish.

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The Enchanting Dhaka 🇧🇩