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Visiting DPRK 🇰🇵

June 2015: A Journey to Pyongyang

In June 2015, I embarked on one of the most unusual trips of my life—a visit to Pyongyang in the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (North Korea). Never in my wildest dreams had I imagined stepping foot in this heavily restricted and enigmatic country, but there I was, invited by the International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies (IFRC). The mission was to assess the impact of the ongoing drought on food security and the nutritional status of affected communities.

This first visit to North Korea was a profound and memorable experience, one filled with challenges, contrasts, and a wealth of observations.

Adapting to the Rules

Entering and working in North Korea requires learning to navigate a complex web of restrictions and rules, which were often strictly enforced. These regulations were not only for the visitor’s compliance but also for the safety of our hosts. Interacting with the local population outside formal contexts was limited, and the consequences for breaking the rules could be severe—not for us but for the North Korean individuals involved. This awareness instilled a sense of responsibility to behave with respect and restraint.

Despite these challenges, I found small joys in absorbing as much as I could during official meetings, walks, and moments when my eyes could wander and observe life in Pyongyang.

Pyongyang: A City of Order and Cleanliness

Pyongyang left a strong impression on me. The cleanliness of the city was astonishing—so pristine it could rival or even surpass Singapore. There wasn’t a single piece of rubbish, graffiti, or visible sign of disorder anywhere. This level of tidiness and organisation felt surreal, almost as though the city were a meticulously curated stage. The wide boulevards, grandiose monuments, and stark yet imposing architecture all contributed to Pyongyang’s unique and intriguing aesthetic.

A Glimpse of Rural Life

The highlight of the mission was a trip to villages southeast of Pyongyang, areas particularly affected by the drought. These visits offered a rare opportunity to interact, albeit cautiously, with local communities. Speaking to villagers about their experiences provided valuable insights into the challenges they faced due to food insecurity and malnutrition.

It was during these moments that I felt a human connection, however small. A simple smile exchanged with a villager, a shared glance of curiosity, or a brief conversation spoke volumes about the resilience of the people. Despite the controlled environment, these interactions reminded me of the shared humanity that transcends borders and systems.

This first experience in North Korea was fascinating and sobering in equal measure. The stark contrasts between the tightly controlled facade of Pyongyang and the struggles of the rural communities were eye-opening. The trip gave me a rare glimpse into a society that is often shrouded in secrecy and misconceptions.

While my time there was limited and strictly monitored, the opportunity to witness life in this unique context and provide humanitarian support to vulnerable communities was invaluable. Even amidst severe restrictions, the smallest human interactions—be it a smile or a nod—felt incredibly meaningful.

North Korea remains one of the most extraordinary places I have ever visited.


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