Buenos Aires, Argentina, December 2021

At the end of December 2021, I travelled once again to Argentina, this time for a monitoring mission on disaster preparedness projects—and to spend my Christmas break in a country that has always welcomed me warmly.

Buenos Aires – Meetings, Exploration, and a Polish Literary Connection

My trip began in Buenos Aires, where I had meetings with partner organisations at their headquarters, discussing the progress of disaster preparedness initiatives. But beyond work, I also had time to explore the city, and this time, I discovered an unexpected Polish-Argentinian connection—the fascinating story of Witold Gombrowicz.

Witold Gombrowicz – A Polish Writer in Argentina

Gombrowicz was a Polish novelist, playwright, and essayist, widely considered one of the most original and provocative literary figures of the 20th century. His work, filled with irony, absurdity, and deep philosophical reflections, challenged social norms, identity, and the rigidity of cultural expectations.

What makes his story particularly fascinating is that he never intended to stay in Argentina.

In 1939, Gombrowicz travelled to Buenos Aires aboard the MS Chrobry, a Polish transatlantic liner, to witness the maiden voyage. But while he was in Argentina, World War II broke out, and Poland was invaded by Nazi Germany. Stranded thousands of kilometres from home, he decided to remain in Argentina, where he would spend 24 years in exile.

Life in Buenos Aires was far from easy for him. Unlike other Polish intellectuals who sought support from cultural institutions, Gombrowicz rejected formal ties with the Polish émigré community and chose to immerse himself in the Argentine literary and philosophical circles. He struggled financially, working at Banco Polaco (the Polish Bank in Buenos Aires), all while continuing to write.

Despite his hardships, his years in Argentina were incredibly influential for his literary career. It was in Buenos Aires that he:
• Developed his most famous works, including Ferdydurke (which he translated into Spanish with the help of Argentine writers) and Trans-Atlantyk, a semi-autobiographical novel reflecting on exile and identity.
• Held legendary literary gatherings at Café Rex, where he engaged in deep discussions with young Argentine intellectuals.
• Gained a cult following in Argentina, long before his works were fully appreciated in Poland or internationally.

Eventually, in 1963, Gombrowicz left Argentina for France, where he gained greater recognition, winning the Prix International de Littérature. However, his time in Buenos Aires left a lasting imprint on both his life and literature.

Walking through Buenos Aires and learning about his years in the city, I couldn’t help but admire his resilience, wit, and ability to challenge conventions, even in a completely foreign land.

Salta Province – Field Visits and a Lesson in Infrastructure

After Buenos Aires, I travelled to Salta Province to visit disaster preparedness projects, focusing on rural communities in La Unión and Rivadavia Department.

Reaching these remote villages was an adventure in itself. As we travelled between locations, we encountered muddy roads that left us completely stuck. It took hours of effort to dig the vehicle out and regain mobility, a frustrating but eye-opening experience. The struggle highlighted just how crucial infrastructure is in reaching distant and vulnerable communities—something that is easy to overlook when working from an office but becomes painfully clear in the field.

Christmas in Buenos Aires – A Special Celebration

After finishing my work in Salta, I returned to Buenos Aires—this time to spend Christmas.

What made this holiday special was being invited by my dear friend Sebastian and his mother to their modest but incredibly warm home in one of Buenos Aires’ barrios. It was a simple, cosy, and heartfelt celebration, filled with good company, delicious food, and genuine kindness.

A Perfect End to the Year

Once again, Argentina proved to be a wonderful place, offering me meaningful professional experiences, deep friendships, unexpected discoveries, and even a literary connection to my Polish roots. From learning about Gombrowicz’s exile to getting stuck in the mud in Salta and celebrating Christmas in a Buenos Aires barrio, this trip reminded me of why I keep coming back to this incredible country.

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